Cutty Sark, Thermopylae, Pedro Ňunes - Revell 1:96 - recommended accessories
The difference between a good sailing ship model and a great one is often in the rigging. The goal of HiSModel is to provide the parts and expertise you need to build really accurate and attractive rigging. I use the most accurate rigging plans I can find on each ship and carefully select blocks, made of solid hardwood, of the correct size, for each use. Additionally, I count the blocks needed and offer pre-counted sets that save you time and frustration. The right size, the right count, and we provide plans and instructions to aid you in creating a superb, accurate and authentic model.
Our blocks are created using computerized high speed milling machines (CNC) and therefore have excellent size and shape consistency. Wood blocks are simply more beautiful and stronger than plastic. You and those admiring your work will experience real satisfaction using accurate, top quality rigging components. I recommend you take the challenge – after all, this is what modeling is about!
Have a look at these photos to see what can be done with the Revell Cutty Sark using my accessories! HERE
Veneer deck
Modelers now know that a painted plastic deck cannot compare with a real wood deck!
My decks feature authentic markings for the waterway, nibbing, and fasteners, exactly as seen on historical plans. For a complete description of my wood decks, look here:
Cutty Sark HERE
Thermopylae HERE
Wooden CNC Block sets
The breakdowns below show the type of block before the slash and the number included after the slash. My pre-counted sets are based on which plan is used (from the Cutty Sark’s Museum store or the Revell plan) and your intention regarding sails, studding sails, and studding sail spar rigging. For your convenience, I have included plans to help you understand and compare these possibilities. If you are building a bare spar model, the basic number of blocks will be enough. If you want authentically rigged sails and studding sails (see my amazing real cloth sails below), I definitely recommend the greater.
Offer of CNC Wood Blocks based on authentic rigging plan.
Breakdown of blocks: (plan 1) HERE
Wood blocks for Standing Rigging
DD2,5mm – 148/152x (US this is 2.5 mm, Europe is 2,5 mm -same thing)
DD3,5mm – 60/62x
H6 – 4x
Summary pcs: 218
CNC Wood blocks for Running rigging - without blocks for Studding sails (plan 2-5) HERE
SB1/2 – 116/122
SB1/3 – 123/130
SB1/4 – 20/22
SB1/5 – 20/22
DB2/2 – 39/43
DB2/3 – 62/66 including 16 pieces blocks for lifeboat davit hoists.
DB2/4 - 4
DB2/5 - 1
TB3/3 – 8/9
TB3/5 - 1
Summary pcs: 420
CNC Wood blocks for rigging of Studding sails (plan 6) HERE
SB1/2 – 18/20
SB1/3 – 18/20
SB1/4 – 28/30
Summary pcs: 70
CNC Wood blocks for rigging of Studding sails Boom Jigger (plan 6) HERE
SB1/2 – 20/22
SB2/2 – 10/12
Summary pcs: 34
All blocks together according to authentic rigging plans:
Summary pcs: 742
+ Rope threader - I recommend this a lot. It is almost impossible to thread the rope into the smallest blocks without one of these.
Deadeye photo-etched brass clamps HERE
Clamp deadeyes DD3,5 – is need 30 pcs = 3* 0B3B
Clamp deadeyes DD2,5 – is need 56 pcs = 5* 0B2B
Belaying pins
The molded plastic belaying pins will snap under load. Cut them off, drill out the locations, and use stronger and better-looking pins!
I recommend Belay Pin BP6mm or BP8mm about 150 pcs HERE
Brass Belay pins:
Other variants are a belaying pins from brass which are more thin. BP9/Br -150 pcs HERE
Eyelets and hooks HERE
I recommend that you buy brass photo etched eyelets LO1,5 mm, hooks LH3mm and LH6mm. Some ropes should be tied and hooked. The plastic eyelets supplied with the kit are not strong enough under load. Substituting these will save you a lot of frustration!
1x-LO1,5 mm, hooks 1x LH3mm and 1x LH6mm
For strong eyelets, use these wire ones: 0,6mm, diameter 3mm - pack 100 pcs – ON100 – 1,46 EU
Brass column Railing HERE
These are stronger and nicer replacements for white plastic stanchions in the kit. I recommend these brass railing columns as they are more to scale and will improve the look of your ship. The required number is:
The bow of 14pcs, 6pcs at the pump. At the rear of the 17pcs around the stern, 12 on the roof of the cabin. 49 in total and one as spare.
Total 50pcs – Code No.: 074 111 – 18x; 074 112 – 32x
Hanks HERE
Hanks are used for hanging Jib and Stay sails. For this kit just one plate with 32 pcs hangs. = RSM18B – 2x
CNC sails
My sails are sewn using a CNC sewing machine. They have excellent dimensional precision and perfectly duplicate the shape of each sail. Sails are made from delicate Batist - 100% cotton, weight 88 g/m2.
Edges are bent hem double stitched. The upper bent is wider than on sides and lower part, just as on the real sails. Sails are sewed with fine details, such as reef bands, lining in the corners, etc. To make these sails even more authentic, I recommend overcasting rope edges + dye them to a more realistic color (can be done soaking them in tea).
For more information about my sails, you can see on my website HERE
Cutty Sark or Thermopylae – set of sails without Studding sails
Cutty Sark HERE
Thermopylae HERE
Cutty Sark or Thermopylae – set with 12 studding sails
Cutty Sark HERE
Thermopylae HERE
Flags
These flags are accurate according to known historical facts. The flags are made from a very fine synthetic cloth called Whisper. Flags are produced via sublimation printing and have very realistic color and sharp details.
Cutty Sark, Thermopylae – set of flags are printed on both side of cloth according real informations.
Cutty Sark HERE
Thermopylae HERE
Decoration ornaments for Cutty Sark or Thermopylae
The Cutty Sark kit was introduced in 1959, and many old kits are still being traded. The plastic parts age well, but decals do not! HiSModel is here o the rescue with these fabulous photo-etched nameplates and decorations, designed according to each ship's plans.
Cutty Sark HERE
Thermopylae HERE
Draft scales HERE
according to the real size! The draft scale on ships was made so the height of the digit and the height of gap was 6 inches. Together 1 foot.
For Cutty Sark and Thermopylae, cut the decals so the bottom number is X and the top number is XXII. The waterline of the ship is between XX and XXI. Draft scale manual HERE
Ropes HERE
A quality model ship loses its good appearance without quality ropes. I offer high quality AMATI ropes. I confess, that I don’t have experience with length of each diameter needed for model. But you will certainly utilize all diameters of ropes for standing and running rigging.
Size – height of block / rounded Ø of rope in mm
2mm / 0,1 mm
3mm / 0,25 mm
4mm / 0,35 mm
5mm / 0,4 mm
6mm / 0,5 mm
7mm / 0,6 mm
Professional Rigging rope AMATI for kit:
I confess, that I don’t have experience with length needed for model. But you will certainly utilize all diameters of ropes for standing and moving rigging.
Recommend:2x N1/40; N25/100; N50/20;
B18/40; B25/20; B50/20, B75/20, B100/20
Number of pcs 9
Chain HERE
I recommend 2-3m Chain 1mm CH1- 3x
For an understanding of how to use my products (workflows), you can use manuals which I provide on my website.
Most helpful are books especially about Rigging, period ship models, Historic ship models.
Expert builders have come before you, and their knowledge is there for you to exploit! There are lots of discussions on the internet about these ship models, created in 1959 and still being sold new today.
I wish you lot of fun, patience, and nerves of steel in the construction of this beautiful model.